Dragon Blood And Indonesia

There be komodo dragons

Focusing on a prehistoric komodo dragon in the distance, he almost overlooks another directly underfoot. Both reptile and Englishman, reversing rapidly, are on full alert. The dragon's venomous bite could have proved fatal for the man. Fortunately, its twitching tail settles and it returns to a semi-comatose state.

We have pulled up in a couple of dinghies to the Komodo National Park on one of the 566 islands of Indonesia's East Nusa Tenggara province. The tiny island of Rinca - one of several across which the park housing the giant lizards stretches - is one of numerous stops on a seven-day sailing expedition aboard the yacht Ombak Putih (White Wave).

A magnificent 36m traditional phinisi schooner built in 1996 in Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo) and based in Bali, Ombak Putih hops around the southeast islands in grand style but not luxury, as its European owners, SeaTrek, point out. Heading a crew of 16, our Sulawesi captain, after 20 years of sailing in Indonesia, knows the nuances of these seas and islands, protruding peaks of a mountain chain that begins in northern Sumatra, like the back of his hand.

After a refit earlier this year, Ombak Putih's paintwork and teak decks are looking slick. The 12 air-conditioned ensuite cabins, though adequate (and cleaned daily), are a little spartan. Tip: bring a hair dryer if you require one.

But there are nice touches such as complimentary laundry service, moist handtowels and fresh fruit juices after excursions, massages for a small fee, and snacks and drinks between the main meals.

The real appeal is in the rugged experience of a classic sailing adventure. Reflecting the niche opening for adventure tourism, Ombak Putih's voyages, or "leisure expeditions", hark back to another era, when the idea of sailing the high seas conjured up a degree of romantic risk.

The 90-minute flight from Bali to the predominantly Catholic Flores covers a representative section of Indonesia's striking and diverse archipelago, comprising more than 17,000 islands. Flores, which is famous for the 2004 discovery of hominid skeletons, is our jumping-off point to the other islands.

From Bali, the aerial view highlights amoeba-like contours in fluorescent greens and turquoise encircling countless volcanic islands. These are the real deal: remote, stunning tropical paradises.

It is this unadulterated beauty that is so alluring, instilling the sense you are indeed privileged to be part of it. Accessing the pristine islets and coves is implausible except by boat or, perhaps, parachute, which keeps the region mostly tourist-free.

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Kamus Lengkap Indonesia Inggris

Americans in Sumatra

Twentieth-century Indonesia

Historical dictionary of Indonesia

Lewellyn's Herbal Almanac 2001